Category Archives: Mostar

Onwards to Mostar, Herzegovina

10.8.15

Last night we were waiting to go to bed but needed to pay Amira and her daughter said she was sleeping
We played with crazy dog for a while then decided we would have to knock and find her due to early train.
She appeared and we double checked still OK for texting driving lady to pick us up at 6.30am.
She rang her and said that she was going to the seaside but would call someone else in the morning and not to worry.
Being used to Turkish time we had already told a white lie and said our train was 15 mins earlier than it really is.
At 6.25 Amira knocked our door and our taxi was waiting.
Rocket man drove us and we were at the station just after 6.35am.
Plenty of time for espresso and now feeling hyper and ready to go!
Can’t go up to the platform because it’s freezing so current choice is continue dying from passive smoking or freeze.

Have made it onto the train and needless to say its not a smoke free zone.
Might as well start smoking again as currently on 40 a day without the buzz although the espresso comes close πŸ™‚
Found a pair of comfy seats with a table cloth and assumed all carriages were the same.
Its pandemonium! Cases and bags everywhere, a no nonsense man made some people move their bags and has now come and asked what we would like to drink.
Maybe later I said.
Got told in no uncertain terms we drink or go as he waved at our table cloth
Oh OK then, another espresso.
Its 7.15…I’ve had one coffee in the room, one at the station and another on its way.
My metabolism will be so fast that I shall resemble a stick insect and no one will recognise me when I get home.

Bang on 7.15 and we’re on our way on what is supposed to be one of the most beautiful train journeys in Europe.
Last time we did a most beautiful journey was in Vietnam and didn’t see much through the torrential rain.
Today is sunny and am really excited.
(could be caffeine related )

image

image

Sadly the excitement was short lived.
I’m not being anti smoker and I know ex smokers are the worst but this was ridiculous.
A hardened 40 a dayer would have struggled I’m sure.
The couple across from us had 4 each in the first 15 minutes. A haze covered  the whole carriage.

image

No one seemed to want windows open and window wars broke out between us and the chainees behind us.

image
We won window wars by default as they wanted it open once it got very hot. I said we should close it, John said no 😦

The journey was 3 hours, not 2 and a bit but not sure if that’s because we stopped randomly a few times.
There were lots of very long tunnels and one scary moment with lots of tooting, screeching to a very noisy halt and sitting in a tunnel for around 20 minutes.
The scenery got better and better as the journey went on.

image

image

image

image

On arrival we followed the booking.com map which are dreadful by Johns own admission.
The gentle stroll I imagined became 1 hour 20 minutes and about 5km along ugly main roads in 40 degrees asking for directions along the way
By the time we finally stopped at a little cafe for refreshments I was at the stage of saying this was the last holiday we were going on together as having organised everything except Johns job of maps I was very angry.
I sent him off to ask the cafe owner if he had any idea where we were and it turned out we were a few houses away.
He took John along to show him.The owner said check in was 12.30 so not long to wait.
We had drinks and went along and met the really friendly owner who was cleaning the pool.
The place was such an oasis behind a frontage of rough looking apartments.
We were welcomed with beer which went straight to my head and made me forget the drama of getting here.
The owner told us we shouldn’t go into town til after 5pm as too hot and said he would drive us to a beautiful place out of town tomorrow morning.
It is hot and sunny but not humid like it is back in Fethiye this year, everyone’s saying it’s the worst for many years.
We were shown to our apartment. Its beautiful.

image

image

Snuck out without being seen and are currently in a Turkish restaurant where we’ve had chicken wraps and ezogelin soup.
Now waiting for cay πŸ™‚
Chatted to the couple running the restaurant, she is Bosnian, he is Turkish, she wants to live here, he wants to live in Turkey.

Opposite is an ice cream stall.
I’ve already checked out the flavours.
Never managed to re-find the Rocher stall yesterday so will have to make do with Tiramisu today…or Nutella…or peach….

So tiramisu it was. Very good but Kinder is still the winner for me.

Had a wander around part of the town.
Spotted Halip from our Sarajevo tour and stopped to chat.
Went to a mosque where we could walk up the minaret for a small fee.
Felt rather nauseous round the small stone spiral staircase, got jelly legs again but amazing views from the top and glad we did it.

image

image

image
Our minaret from outside

Stopped on a small terrace in the old town which boasts the best view of the Old Bridge. Just beautiful and the river is the most beautiful shade of green.
That one view made it worth coming, just stunning.

image

image

We walked along and over the bridge stopping to watch some crazy men jumping from the bridge.

image

Found myself at eye level too close for comfort with a man in speedos who was collecting money!
They collect until they feel they have enough and then launch themselves off, apparently its 21 metres.
In Lonely Planet it says you can be taught for a fee and have people in wet suits ready in case of problems.
Think I will give that a miss.

We stopped in a little stone walled bar overlooking the river and old buildings for a while.

image

I made the mistake of ordering homemade lemonade.
After a few teaspoons of sugar and a mountain of ice it was OK.
Ah….talking of sugar…we’ve been collecting sachets to replace what was lost all over my suitcase.
They give 2 sachets with every espresso so one spare sugar each time πŸ™‚

(Have spotted an espresso machine on the landing by our room but haven’t tried it yet, but assume its for communal use.)

Walked back from the old town, its quite a long way.
Look what I spotted along the way, and easy to remember where it is for tomorrow!

image

image

Feeling exhausted after early start and walking almost the length of Herzegovina today.

Didn’t fancy walking back in to town to eat so took the bridge to the right of where were staying.
Had to go past some dodgy looking buildings and a load of people staring at us outside a grotty bar.
The wind got up and there was lightening so we went into the first eatery we saw, could possibly be the only one locally, and had pizza! Just for a change.
Not the nicest surrounds but was really delicious.

image

John was convinced 2 guys sitting outside were drug dealers.
We ate quickly and popped in the local shop and home by dark as it all felt very seedy.
Johns got a little drop of beer – 2 litres for Β£1 and I’ve got a Kinder bueno and now time to catch up on Corrie.

image

We sure know how to party.

More observations, from here and Sarajevo

80’s music playing everywhere
No backgammon or okey games, people just sit

Mostar and Blagaj

11.8.15

As promised the owner from our apart drove us out to Blagaj.
Its a beautiful old stone village set by the start of the river.
image

image

Set beside the mountain and a cave is a 15th century Ottoman Dervish house.

image

We had a wander around the little house, appropriately dressed of course, it was lovely and what a location!
image

image

image

image

The river and scenery is just beautiful and lots of bars, cafes and restaurants.
We had drinks by the river, visited the old house, had a huge lunch.

image
Mixed grill for John, steak with ham, cheese and mushrooms for me

Whilst wandering in the village we fell in love with a gorgeous puppy which was down some steps
image
and tied up outside a historic house.
image

image

It was so excited to see us and had lots of cuddles.
image

John untangled it from some sticks as it only had a few inches of rope to move around.
The owner appeared as we said goodbye and we said what a gorgeous puppy.
He asked us not to touch it (ooops) as they don’t want it to like people as its a hunting dog and someone could steal itΒ  the mountains.
Its just 8 weeks old and tied up behind a door by the river.
So heartbreaking hearing it barking as we walked away.
Needless to say we declined his offer to look around the house.
We could still hear it when we got back up the steps. Desperately wanting attention.
Goodness knows when the next time will be when it receives any affection.:(
So incredibly sad.

Spent a while chilling in this beautiful area and then went to wait for the 2.15pm bus back to Mostar.
Went to a very scary toilet way down some stairs belonging to a small cafe by the bus top.
Its never a good start when they send you off with a key in the pitch dark!
Lots of wooden doors circa 1950 and as I slowly turned the key and peeped in it was Turkish style but didn’t have the antique spiders I imagined.

The bus arrived bang on time and we worked out where to get off give or take a stop and home within 30 minutes.

I went for a refreshing dip in the pool ( lucky no one around as I did a sort of sitting launch and once in panicked about freezing to death as had no idea how I would be able to get out again – then caught my foot on the built in concrete steps the other end ) while John went for his first run since bruising his ribs a few weeks ago.
He was under threat of what might happen to him if he laid himself up and ruined the rest of our holiday!

He survived, all good and really pleased for him as I know he’s missed it.

Walked into Mostar town to see it at night and found a cute little place with absolute bargain Cevapis. And of course Bosnian sausages.
The bridge and town look lovely lit up and lots of tourists and nice atmosphere.
The day time 80s music seemed to be replaced with current tracks, they don’t make music like they used to that’s for sure.

Followed by….a trip to Konzum supermarket for bus journey snacks.
Spotted 8 different brands of Jaffa Cakes and 4 types of chocolate orange choc bars.

Followed by…..
Ferrero Rocher ice cream!!! Yayyyyy…well worth waiting for although Kinder Bueno flavour with its chunky chocolate swirls still in the lead.

Walked home, dirty stop outs back by nine.
Planned a tv catch up last night but VPN wouldn’t work.
Settings changed now as per Neils instructions and fingers crossed for a bit of tv time.

Nearly forgot….bought Lion bars in Konzum too. Haven’t seen them for years.
Swear they’ve shrunk. Unlike my waistline πŸ™‚

Night night, off to Croatia tomorrow.